Harder wheels are easier to slide at low speeds. However as you progress try to move down the duro until around a. These are usually the butteriest slides.
ALL these wheels are good for sliding. Simply pick a pair you like and follow the link. Keep in mind, how icy you want the slide to be duro , whether you want to wear it in or not lip and also the size, IMO smaller wheels tend to slide better but depends how fat you are. I know I've missed quite a few so just add suggestions in the comments. Please keep in mind this guide was created for people who are new and know nothing of wheels. Combine everything and you can prettymuch tell how a wheel will behave just by looking at it, ie flashies have a deep lip, are sidest, come in a natually slidey thane and have a 'largish' core.
Combine these and you have a very fun wheel. Share Tweet Facebook. Views: If you buy them, Rebecca Black will see your amazing thane lines and want to sleep with you". This is a great thread, but it won't stop stupid people creating the same stupid threads over and over again.
At least it will provides somewhere to send them when they do. That just relies on people linking to it instead of replying to the stupid threads. Despite this thread being dead, should point out especially for Australians, we have an Aus based wheel company that makes only freeride wheels called Premier Wheel Co. Here's a vid:. Nice guide for both Begginers and Professionals. In fact, I believe the sweet spot would be wheels that are around 66mm in size.
This size will give you the best balance of speed, weight, and leverage over the wheels. One is easier to slide than the other.
The one that is easier to slide is the stoneground finish. This skin is a material that holds the wheel together when it is in the mold. It is basically very grippy and does not produce a smooth slide.
However, it does come off after a handful of slides, but it is not ideal for beginners. Some wheels tend to ride differently on hot and cold days. For example, Powell Peralta snakes are notorious for this. They slide differently depending on the temperature.
In cold weather, they feel a bit gripper, but slide like butter when it is hot out. So keep it in the back of your head when reading information about a wheel and actually skating it.
Getting the right technique will take time, error and a lot of muscle memory. However, you can build your setup in a certain way to help compensate for the lack of technique. I also got some feedback from other riders in the community too.
Check out the FB group thread here if you want to see what everyone recommended and why. These are some seriously undderrated longboard wheels from Hawgs. A real contender for the title of best slide wheels in the game. Snakes are generally the go-to recommendation when you ask for beginner slide wheels. They slide well, slide smoothly, and break traction easily.
Finally, they are also durable and resistant to flat spotting. They can last months of abuse and hard skating. Catch my indepth review of the Powell Snakes here. Powell snakes do come stone-ground, so they can be slid easily out of the box. You can choose between two sizes. The first is 66mm in size and the second 69mm nice in size. Check out the Powell Snakes here on Amazon. Need any more convincing? They are what Josh Neuman rides to do those fast stand up slides. They are also arguably the best slide wheel of all time.
Check out Josh ripping on them below. Remember collective is known for its slidey, durable urethane. Literally, any wheel from that brand can be used for fun sliding. The Lil Hoots are no different. The Hoots have a buttery slide and they break traction with a minimal kick out.
They are great for learning slides at slower speeds. In fact, if you could push fast enough, you can get them to slide on flat ground. The Lil Hoots come with a narrow contact path, radiused lips, and slidey urethane with options from 74a to 80a. I recommend you pick the harder 80a for more resistance to flat-spotting, and an easier slide. You can buy a set of Hoots from the Remember Collective website , Muirskate, or a longboard shop near you.
They are super affordable, so should fit most budgets. Those wheels slid very easily and had a buttery slide. I believe the Hoots and the Slammas have the same urethane so I can attest to its quality and slideyness hehe.
Check me out riding the Slammas below. They are known throughout Europe for making wheels that are durable and that slide great. They are worth checking out. The Supremini classic fits the bill as a good slide wheel. It comes in the recommended 65mm diameter, has a narrow contact patch of 47mm, and has urethane that is long-lasting and slidey. Finally, it was designed to be ridden in the cold, cloudy climate of the UK, so it will be a good choice for sliding in cold temperatures.
The wheels are super affordable too. You can buy a set of the Supremini classic here on the Slide perfect website. If you choose to get it, tell them who sent you hehe. Quite similar to the other wheels on my list, these come in a 66mm diameter. They have a narrow contact patch of 29mm, which is one of the narrowest on my list.
If you want to go sideways, these are a very good choice for that. This urethane has been designed to be durable, slow wearing and resistant to flat spotting. It was designed and tested in the PNW pacific north-west , so it will handle cold weather and low temperatures well too! Finally, with the stoneground contact patch, you will be able to slide these straight out the box.
Honestly, might just pick up a couple sets for myself. However, Iceez come in a different urethane formula that is resistant to wear and flat-spotting. These wheels come in a really small 59mm. This is bad as they can get caught in cracks, stopped by pebbles and such, but good because it makes them lightweight and easy to push out and slide.
They have a wide contact patch at 40mm. This seems a bit wide, but it is to provide a balance between too much and too little slip as the urethane of these wheels is incredibly slidey.
They do come with a stoneground finish and radiused wheels. However, as they wear down their lips start to get sharper and more square. They lose some of those initially performance characteristics.
They will still be very slidey, but will just skate slightly differently. So even if you mess up one set, it is easy enough to get another. The taller height makes them more suitable for going over asphalt, over pebbles and providing a more comfortable ride over uneven surfaces.
Their hardness typically ranges from 74a to 86a, with the softer ones being better for skating on rougher, bumpier roads. Finally, skateboard wheels usually come with a rounded lip shape. Longboard wheels vary with their desired purpose, so their lip shapes usually vary. The most important thing for a cruising wheel is simply the durometer and the size. Something in 70mm and 80a will do you well.
Wheel durometer is basically how hard a wheels urethane is. This is typically measured on a shore scale between a. This is good if you have to go really fast over a short distance and have a smooth surface to skate on. Finally, the harder the wheel, the easier it will slide. Softer wheels are slower but are more comfortable to skate.
They provide a smooth ride over most surfaces and grip well when going around corners. The softness allows them to absorb a lot of road vibration. Finally, they are also harder to slide but slide smoother and less violently when they do.
This is because of the use of wheel cores and urethane with different rebound properties. In short, a high rebound urethane can be in soft durometer but still feel stiff and roll fast, whilst a low rebound urethane can be in a harder durometer but feel soft and slow. When it comes to wheel cores, they stiffen up the wheels and make them feel harder than they really are. They can really improve how they work. In summary , the hardness is the most important feature to determine how comfortable a wheel will feel, how fast it will roll and how much it will grip the road.
Freeride wheels tend to be all over the spectrum, however, wheels between 78aa work well for freeride. Some companies have softer wheels with great urethane that slides well and other companies have harder wheels that slide and last long too. For beginners, the harder wheels would be easier to slide and learn on. Between 78aa too. Wheels in this spectrum will not be too soft or too hard. They will roll decently and be comfortable to skate. For example, a wheel like the Seismic Encores are good examples of longboard dance wheels.
They have a large core so will be light for quick acceleration and when you do flip tricks with your board. Between 74aa. However, you will encounter wheels on the edge of the spectrum at 83a and 73a. If your wheel of choice has a large core, 74aa will be ok. If not, then go for a wheel between 78aa.
I suggest this hardness because they will provide a smooth slide with good braking power. For beginners, look to the slightly harder formulas for easier sliding. A good example of a beginner downhill wheel is the Kevin Reimer P0well wheel in 75a.
They are easy to slide and feature a high rebound urethane for great roll speed. Typically, skate wheels have rounded lips.
This makes them slide easier, especially for doing bluntslides, power slides and for grinding against coping. Comparatively, longboard wheels have basically 3 main lip shapes. These lips are to help a wheel provide maximum grip. They help the wheel maintain traction round corners and prevent it from sliding — the lips are perpendicular to the floor and resist sliding by pushing against it.
These wheels are what downhill racers use for racing so they can have the maximum grip in the corners. These wheels allow a wheel to transition from gripping to sliding as smoothly as possible.
However, as these wear down the rounded lip can change shape. And this will affect how they perform. Basically a mix of the two. These wheels will be the most consistent and keep the lips the same angle as you wear them down. The edge will remain the same until you get to the bottom of the bevel. One side might be rounded and the other square, or one side rounded and the other beveled. This is the center of the wheel and is basically what holds the bearings.
These come in different shapes and sizes, and they can go a long way to dictate how a wheel performs, how it wears, how fast it rolls etc. They can basically be split into two categories and you can choose from either big or small cores. Big cores basically serve to stiffen up the wheel.
By having a rigid center as the core, the urethane around that center naturally becomes flexes less and acts stiffer. This means it will slide better, roll better, grip better and have more consistent wear down to the core. It also serves to lighten up the wheel and stiffen the urethane to achieve faster acceleration and higher top speeds. So yeah, when a large core is paired with dense urethane, it makes for a dangerously beautiful combination.
So with thanks to large cores, wheel companies can turn 74a wheels that would normally roll sluggishly on small cores, into fast rolling downhill machines thanks to the use of big cores. As you will observe, any competitive downhill wheel has a big core. And this is the same with some of the best and most consistent freeride wheels too.
Finally, because of how light they make wheels, some of the best dancing wheels have big cores too. There is nothing that annoys me more than going down a hill slowly because of a slow wheel. It just robs me of the pleasure of going fast. Check out the image on the right to see some downhill wheels with large cores. Unlike big cores, small cores are cheap to manufacture and these wheels are cheaper in general to those with big cores.
These wheels have more urethane and absorb more road vibration. They are in general more comfortable to skate than wheels with big cores. Wheels with big cores often feel stiff and often reflect back road vibration. So yeah, wheels with small cores are great for skating slightly rougher roads. Wheels with small cores tend to be smaller at around 70mm in size. Any larger and they tend to feel sluggish and really heavy because of all the urethane.
That said, not everyone wants to pay extra for a wheel with a big core. Wheels with small cores work decently and you will find them widely used by everyone. However, if you are looking for maximum performance, big core wheels are the way to go.
I personally really like my cruiser wheels with a small core for maximum comfortability and excellent vibration absorption. There are a few different positions and they basically affect how the wheel wears down and how it breaks traction. It may not matter too much for dancing either.
Basically, the core is set dead center in the wheel. This shape allows for the most even wear as you wear down the wheel. I personally like center set wheels.
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